for the mahseer trip. I need to get some jabs done – including the one in the bottom – and sort out the malaria pills (not Lariam). Then a trip to get my Indian visa done. When I booked my flights, it turned out there were only four seats left on the plane, which I thought unusual for a ticket two months in advance; of course I didn’t realise then that I am arriving in the last few days of Ramzaan. Hopefully this does not affect my culinary adventures too much; judging by the amazing photography and mouthwatering descriptions on this page, probably not!
As for sights, I am really torn about what to see and what must be left for next time. Lal Qila and Nizam-ud-Din Dargah, and on my last day the tombs of Humayun and Safdarjung, are what I have decided on so far, with so many more to choose from. Although this won’t be my first time in India, and I have a little pidgin Hindi to get me past the touts, urchins and so forth, I will probably hire a guide to take me through Chandni Chowk, which apparently is mayhem but sweetmakers Ghantewallahs is on the to-see list as well. I am also quite keen on seeing Johnny Nicholson’s grave (sorry, India) and also Sikander Sahib’s St. James’s Church. Qtub Minar, Ghalib Haveli and Tughlukabad I fear will have to wait till next time. We shall see.