More charcuterie

Homemade smoked salmon.  Served with sliced onions, capers, black pepper and a generous squeeze of lemon, it wants nothing more; it disappeared like the dew on a morning rose.  It went down very well with a Clare Valley white wine: Pike’s riesling.

Next appetiser was home-cured duck prosciutto; this was made with Barbary duck and came out even better than my previous attempt.  The cheese is pecorino, which I cannot pretend to have made also.

To complete the full calorific broadside the main meal was home-made duck confit served with garlicky-rosemary roast potatoes.  At the risk of boasting to the point of enthusiasm, this was simply the best confit de canard I have ever eaten: restaurant ones are always smaller, usually over-salty and never as juicy.  This time I made two, one for each diner, but next time I will make a batch to lay down.  There is also the possibility of making one of my favourite winter-foods of all time, cassoulet – so we shall see.

The main dish was helped down with a green salad, dressed with what I would consider the Holy Mother of all salad dressings: the duck jelly that settles at the bottom of the confit pot, which solidifies in the cold and can be scraped away with a spoon.  It is pure concentrated duck essence, heavy in collagen and umami and not unlike the Japanese fish dish called nikogori, although that is made with bones and skin of skate or ray. 

8 responses to “More charcuterie

  1. chef adam!

  2. SHAR, drop me a line if you are in Tokyo and hungry.

  3. I also wish you wonderfull catches & safe journeys at sea.

    I am quite interested in your home-cured duck prosciutto.
    Do I need any special machine for curing and drying?
    Because I would like to try.

  4. Hi Piquet-san,
    Thank you!
    No machinery or special ingredients are required to make the duck prosciutto. All it needs is duck, salt and pepper. Here is the recipe (日本語で)

    材料
    鴨のささみ(胸)肉1枚に対して天然塩カップ1 ホワイトペッパー 小さじ1/2

    道具
    ジップロクのフリーザーバッグ 安い掃除用のタオル タコ糸

    ※注意点1:塩はヨードなど添加物のないものを使う
    ※注意点2:鴨は猟で獲った野生ものは食べている餌によって寄生虫・菌・ウィルスが入っている可能性があるのでこのレシピには使えません。

  5. 作り方
    1:皮を上にして鴨肉が隠れるぐらい塩に漬けます(だいたい1カップ、足りなければたす)。1個のささみを1枚のフリーザーバッグの中で作業すると便利。
    2:フリーザーバッグを冷蔵庫に入れて24時間漬けます。
    3:鴨肉をとりだして水で塩を洗い流します。キッチンペーパーでよくふいて水分をとります。ささみの両側にホワイトペッパーをふりかけます。
    4:鴨肉を1枚ずつタオルでささ団子みたいな形に包みます。上と下を糸で縛ってとめます。
    5:風通しのよい、温度が13~16度のところで肉を吊って1週間乾かします。ラベルに日付を書いてタオルにしばりつけると何日干したか忘れられません、便利です!
    6:1週間たったら肉を取り出します。この段階でできあがり。チーズ、サラミ、赤ワイン、ルッコラのサラダなどよく合います。切る時はてっさと同じ感覚で薄く切れるほど鴨がおいしいです。
    7:保存方法はラップして冷蔵庫の中で。2、3週間もちます。

  6. Thanks a lot for your kind reply with the recipe in Japanese!
    I am wondering the simpleness like KARASUMI (dried fish roe).
    It seems the balance of salt and the degree of drying are the key for the taste of duck prosciutto.
    Now I am in the position to make within this winter…may be

    (no need to reply again for this comment)

  7. Adam,
    The smoked salmon looked great, rather like lox. I have smoked alot of salmon, but it has always been hot smoked, producing a kipper. Yours is obviously a cold smoke, which I long have wanted to try, but haven’t seen a decent cold smoker to emulate. How did you do it?
    My copy of the charcuterie book is on its way. The photo of the slices of your second attempt of the duck prosciutto, show a man who is serious about his endeavors. Well done!

  8. Hi Jim,
    For a cold-smoke the smoke-maker and smoking chamber are separate, with a long coiled pipe (long to let the smoke cool down) between.
    I am glad you ordered the charcuterie book, it is an amazing lexicon. Also, the duck prosciutto is about the easiest recipe in it! Only three ingredients duck, salt and pepper…

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